Please find here the basic information on How To use ONE INSTANT peel-apart film:
Store ONE INSTANT cartridges in original bag & box. Refrigeration is recommended only if wrapped in an air-tight container & slowly acclimated when removing from cold. Moisture must be avoided. Do not freeze.
Load ONE INSTANT cartridges in lowest available light. Don't tug DARKSLIDE or PROCESSING TAB while handling. Insert cartridge into camera back and ensure it's seated properly. Partially close camera back to thread PROCESSING TAB between rollers. Don't pull beyond notches. Close camera back & allow DARKSLIDE to fall in place.
Remove DARKSLIDE by pulling firmly; expose.
The PROCESSING TAB should be centered & pulled straight. Standard processing time is 3'. Clean goo from rollers while waiting. When ready, peel FILM & PRINT apart. Carefully separate PRINT & discard remnants. Keep paper cartridge. It makes an excellent holder for drying PRINTS & can be used later for display; it is also fully recyclable!
Here are some of the most frequently asked questions about our ONE INSTANT film. Please help us to update and expand this informative section by sending any questions or thoughts to firstname.lastname@example.org.
ONE INSTANT is compatible with all Type 100 packfilm cameras. This includes Polaroid Automatic Land Cameras and many others. The Type 100 format produce a print that measures 85x108mm (~3.25x4.25"). This is the same format as Fuji FP-100C, Fuji FP-3000B, Polaroid 667, and so on.
There are 2 other packfilm formats to be aware of, as cameras designed for these sizes will not work with ONE INSTANT film. These formats are Type 80, which produces a square print measuring 85x85mm, and the 4x5" format (e.g. Fuji FP-100C45) which produces a large 90x120mm print. Luckily, the vast majority of packfilm cameras were designed to shoot Type 100 and most cameras out there are perfectly compatible with our film.
But if you're still unsure, feel free to email us and we'll be happy to help you!
Nope; that was a quirk with the Fuji packfilm product. Our legacy Polaroid negative material is coated on a black polyester base that remains impermeable for the ages.
Did you do everything according to the instructions on the box and the video tutorial? Did you put the processing tab between the rollers? Has your camera worked successfully with other packfilm formats before? Hmmm... sounds like we need to investigate… please contact us with as much information (and pictures) as possible at email@example.com and we'll get to the bottom of it!
Producing ONE INSTANT is really expensive because of the labor involved. All parts are made in-house and assembled by hand. No machines here! All in all it takes about 15 minutes to create just a single ONE INSTANT shot.
Your purchase of our film is a contribution to our continued efforts to keep this format alive; hopefully far into the future!
We get our legacy Polaroid materials from the 20x24 Studio, which has a very large stockpile of materials which we use in our color P7 product. There are many years of this material at our disposal, and in the meantime we are exploring options for future stocks to put in our ONE INSTANT cartridges. Our long term goal of securing a peel-apart packfilm future relies on eventually sourcing new negative and positive materials.
ONE INSTANT has done its best to hack the instant peel-apart system, but the reality is that many of the components were never intended to be used in a pack-film configuration. Namely the pods, which were designed for the legendary 20x24” Polaroid cameras. That being said, with a trusted camera you should get consistently good coverage. Small variations will always exist from pod to pod, and different cameras will also introduce variability, depending primarily on the condition of the rollers, the spring tension, and their cleanliness. If you have consistent problems, you might have roller issues (or very bad luck with pods).
Being a paper cartridge, ONE INSTANT is not light-proof so much as it is light-resistant. Always store the film packs in the black bag until shooting, and load them in the lowest available light. Also, be very careful that you do not accidentally pull out the darkslide while handling. If you continue to have problems, make sure that your camera is completely closed and its light seals are in good condition.
We tried to strike a balance between finding adhesives that will reliably stick to the surface of the print, but which can also be cleanly removed. Still, it needs some extra caution for removing them - they can sometimes peel off some of the image layer or even tear the paper. This can be avoided by carefully and slowly peeling off the adhesive parts at a low (oblique) angle. To put it another way, peel back the adhesives instead of ripping them straight off.
Roller cleanliness can have a surprisingly dramatic effect on overall image quality, and even if they appear to be clean, having dried goo on the roller axles will often introduce strange colors, mottling, and splotchiness. Whenever faced with nagging image issues, start by thoroughly cleaning your rollers.
Learning how to safely take apart the roller mechanism and thoroughly cleaning is an important task to learn for any pack-film camera owner. Be careful, work slowly, and consult online guides if you have your doubts. We recommend this video by AwesomeCameras.
This can be caused by pulling out the processing tab too quickly, introducing bubbles into the processing goo. There’s no advantage to pulling too quickly (or slowly for that matter). The best strategy is to pull straight, with the processing tab centered, in one fluid motion, at a moderate speed.
If the processing tab is not pulled out straight and centered, the processing insert can catch on the roller mechanism and come out of the camera damaged or badly aligned. This will result in poor contact and registration between the negative & print (but often quite interesting results!). Best practice is to set the camera down flat on its back and pull the processing tab out as straight and as centered as possible.
A small amount of processing goo in your rollers after taking a photo is nearly inevitable. You should wipe your rollers clean after every shot. A dry paper towel is usually sufficient, but alcohol wipes or a wet rag can be useful for more thorough cleanups.
NOTE: The processing goo is highly alkaline and prolonged contact can cause skin irritation. Always wash thoroughly with water after contact. DO NOT GET IN EYES. Consult original box for more extensive warning information.
Did you do everything according to the instructions on the box and the video tutorial? Did you put the processing tab between the rollers? Has your camera worked with other pack-film formats successfully before? Sounds like we need to investigate… please contact us with as much information (and pictures) as possible at firstname.lastname@example.org.